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Open-air bath among the trees at Kogome no Yu

Remote work · A day in Yugawara

A day in the life of a nomad

This is an example of a Tuesday, written as if I were spending it here. Tuesday is the day West, Kogome no Yu and Kappo Shirako are all open.

Morning

I get to Yugawara Cafe at 9:00, a minute's walk from the station. The quiet work area is ¥300 an hour plus a drink, and I take it for the morning. The café has no regular closing day, and it stays open until 17:00, so the desk is there when I come back.

Yugawara Cafe
9:00–17:00. Work area ¥300 an hour plus a drink.
Bread on the counter at Yugawara Cafe
The counter at Yugawara Cafe, where the morning starts.Photo: shonanjin.com

Lunch

At noon I walk five minutes up to West, the kissaten (喫茶店) in Miyashita. It opens at 8:00 and closes at 18:30, and Thursday is its day off, which is why this day is a Tuesday. Lunch sets run from 10:30 to 14:00. I order the beef curry with salad, ¥1,600, and pay cash.

West
8:00–18:30, closed Thursdays. Beef curry with salad ¥1,600. Cash only.

The call

After lunch I go back to the café and take the one-person booth. A call there is ¥500 an hour plus a drink. I finish before the café closes at 17:00.

Bath, then dinner

From stop 2 at the station I take the bus to Ochiai-bashi, about 10 minutes, and walk through Man'yō Park to Kogome no Yu (こごめの湯). The bath is ¥1,100 through the day and ¥600 after 19:00, so I go at 19:00. Last entry is 20:30, and Monday is the closed day. I don't stay long. Kappo Shirako, two minutes from the station, takes dinner orders until 21:00, and the grilled or simmered fish set is ¥1,800. I call ahead. Monday is Shirako's closed day too.

If the next morning starts in Tokyo, the Odoriko (特急踊り子) is about 75 minutes and ¥2,810 with a reserved seat. The last train home from Tokyo leaves at 22:52.

Kogome no Yu
9:00–21:00, last entry 20:30. ¥600 after 19:00. Closed Mondays.
Kappo Shirako
Dinner 18:00–22:00, last order 21:00. Fish set ¥1,800. Closed Mondays.
Rooftops and hills near Man'yō Park
Rooftops and the hills near Man'yō Park. 13 August 2026.Photo: Matthew Ketchum
Stream and stone steps under green trees beside Genkan Terrace
The stream beside Genkan Terrace in Man'yō Park.Photo: Yugawara Soyu Books and Retreat
Tatami rest room with low tables and a window onto greenery at Kogome no Yu
The tatami rest room at Kogome no Yu.Photo: Yugawara Onsen Kogome no Yu
Round indoor bath with a rock wall at Kogome no Yu
The indoor bath at Kogome no Yu.Photo: Yugawara Onsen Kogome no Yu
Yugawara Station and a bus outside in the sunshine
Yugawara Station, for the train back toward Tokyo.Photo: Matthew Ketchum
The Fujiki River in Yugawara's onsen district, with a weir, a road bridge and a steel wellhead tower
The Fujiki River in the onsen district. The steel tower stands over a hot-spring well.Photo: Quercus acuta / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
White and pink plum trees on the slopes of Makuyama Park
Plum trees on the slopes of Makuyama Park, early spring.Photo: Matthew Ketchum
Summit sign on Mt Makuyama, 626 m, with the sea beyond
The top of Mt Makuyama, 626 m, above the sea.Photo: Makuyama House

The tourism association's English film: 1,300 years of hot springs, ryokan hospitality, mikan, plum blossom and the Yukake festival. yugawaraonsenkanko, 16 March 2018, 4 minutes 56 seconds.

Watch on YouTube

The plum festival below Mt Makuyama: about 4,000 trees, from early February to mid-March. Yugawara Onsen, 10 November 2023, 2 minutes 8 seconds.

Watch on YouTube

Quick answers

Is this a real day someone spent?

No. It's an example, put in the first person so the hours line up. The places, prices and train fare are the ones on this site.

Why a Tuesday?

West is closed on Thursday, and Kogome no Yu and Kappo Shirako are closed on Monday. Tuesday is a day all three are open.

How much is the evening bath?

Kogome no Yu is ¥600 after 19:00. Earlier in the day it is ¥1,100.