
Hakuunsou
A quiet ryokan in the woods above the river, with rock baths, rooms with their own hot-spring tubs, and dinner by candlelight.
- Rooms with open-air baths
- Riverside dining room
- Adults and older children
Kaiseki ryokan · Miyakami
A kaiseki ryokan on the hillside above the onsen district: 17 rooms, every one with its own open-air bath of flowing spring water, and a menu that follows the 24 small seasons.
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Hours and prices change with the season. The official page has today's details.
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Ashikari has been a kaiseki inn for about eighty years. It sits on the slope above the onsen district, looking across to the ridge of the old Hakone crater, and the newer rooms mix sukiya woodwork with big glass and modern furniture.
All 17 rooms have their own open-air bath fed straight from the spring. There are also two large open-air baths: Takane no Yu, which looks over a moss garden to the Hakone mountains, and Kusamakura no Yu, a courtyard bath walled in Manazuru's Komatsu stone. Both open 15:00–24:00 and again until 10:00, switching between men and women. There's a spa, Ajisai, too.
Dinner is kaiseki built on fish landed at Manazuru and Fukuura and vegetables from Ashigara and Mishima, and the menu changes with each of the 24 seasonal divisions of the old calendar. Tell them about allergies, vegetarian or gluten-free needs when you book. They also cook for babies and small children.
The building climbs the hill, so some rooms are reached by about 40 steps in all; call ahead if stairs are hard for you. The nearest bus stop is at the bottom of a steep hill, so take a taxi (about 7 minutes, around ¥1,200) or ask for the free station pickup when you book.
Also in the Onsen guide
Takane no Yu looks over a moss garden to the Hakone mountains, and Kusamakura no Yu is a courtyard bath walled in Komatsu stone. They're for overnight guests.

A quiet ryokan in the woods above the river, with rock baths, rooms with their own hot-spring tubs, and dinner by candlelight.

A modern ryokan on the hill at Risōkyō: 17 rooms, every one with its own open-air onsen, and a dinner course that mixes Japanese and Italian.

An inn built around dinner: Italian cooking with fish from Sagami Bay and organic vegetables from Izusan, and its own spring flowing into four baths.