Skip to content

Personal essay · River and sea

Two Waters

A free afternoon: sushi near the station, a walk along the Chitose River, and time on Yoshihama Beach, where moving water and open sea calm you in different ways.

A surfer looking out at the waves on Yoshihama's dark sand

Photo: Matt Ketchum

A free afternoon in Yugawara doesn't need much planning. I'd walk from the station, stop at Hanamaru Ginsai for conveyor-belt sushi made with fish from the local ports, and carry on towards Yoshihama Beach. Some days I went straight down to the sea. Other days I followed the Chitose River first.

The river and the sea calm me in different ways.

The Chitose has a direction. You can see the current and hear it running beside you. The path passes flowers, ordinary houses and people out jogging. Bridges cross at intervals; some are well kept and some are weathered. I like that they aren't all new. They make the town feel lived in rather than arranged for visitors, and they're a reminder that everything people build changes with time.

The river keeps you company. The sea swaps company for scale.

At Yoshihama the view gets wide enough to interrupt whatever I've been carrying. In warm weather I swim. In any season I can sit on the sand with tea or something to eat. The sea shows me something much bigger than me without making me feel small in a cruel way. Its size is calming.

There's no revelation required at the beach. Some days I swim. Some days I sit. Sometimes the whole afternoon is sushi, a walk, water and the sound of the shore, and that's enough.

By the time I turn back I feel centred and brought down to earth. The two waters have done different jobs. The river gave the afternoon movement. The sea gave it space.

Bathe and stay nearby

Day baths

Every day bath in Yugawara, compared →

Places to stay

All places to stay →