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Personal essay · The train

The Decompression Chamber

Why the Tokaido Line Green Car, and the way the view opens up after Fujisawa, became the first part of arriving in Yugawara.

Tokyo to Yugawara: trains and the Green Car →

Yugawara Station and a bus outside in the sunshine

Photo: Matt Ketchum

The trip to Yugawara starts before the train reaches the station.

In Tokyo almost everything carries pressure. The city makes errands, meetings and half-formed plans feel huge. Even on a day when nothing much happens, it feels as if you're standing next to the place where life gets decided. So you keep going, because the next opportunity might be one station, one meeting or one introduction away.

That pressure follows me onto the Tokaido Line. Then, somewhere around Fujisawa, it starts to loosen.

I think of the Green Car as a decompression chamber. It's a protected stretch between Tokyo and Yugawara, long enough for my body to work out that it's leaving one place and heading for another. I put the phone away and look out of the window. I eat, sleep, breathe, or work for a while. What I do is less important than the change in pressure. Even work feels different once the city stops pressing on it.

Past Fujisawa the view opens out and the dense middle of things falls behind. I'm not in Yugawara yet, but I'm not entirely in Tokyo either. The train lets my head arrive before the rest of me does.

Then the doors open at Yugawara Station.

The first thing is the air: clean, clear and crisp. The light is stronger. There's green around the platform, and beyond it the town sits between the mountains and the sea. Tokyo doesn't vanish, but it loses its grip on the moment.

For me the Green Car is more than a comfortable seat. It's the first part of Yugawara. Without that slow release I can reach the same station and still arrive carrying the city inside me. With it, the weekend has started before I step onto the platform.

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